Coastal and Marine Weather

Weather conditions along the coast or at sea play a crucial role in various maritime activities.

Accurate information about wave height, wave direction, ocean currents, wind speed, wind direction, and visibility is essential for the safety of swimmers and surfers, as well as for the safe navigation of ships. These details help in avoiding hazards in the water and planning efficient routes. Such parameters directly influence the safety and planning of water sports activities and the operation of vessels at sea.

Wind Speed / Wind Direction

Wind speed and wind direction play a crucial role in coastal and marine weather, as they have direct impacts on various aspects. High wind speeds can generate strong waves and currents, potentially endangering the safety of ships and boats. Additionally, they influence the efficiency and safety of water sports activities such as sailing and surfing. Wind direction is measured in degrees and determines from which direction weather systems approach coastal regions. Wind speed is measured in knots, with 1 knot equivalent to approximately 1.852 kilometers per hour. In coastal areas, wind speed is also a significant factor for the climate and can affect local weather phenomena such as storms and coastal fog.

In the maritime environment, there are various thresholds and guidelines for wind speeds, which may vary depending on the specific activity and applicable safety standards:

Wind Speed for Sailboats and Water Sports:
Typically, a wind speed of over 15 knots (approximately 28 km/h) is considered a threshold for many sailboats and water sports such as windsurfing or kitesurfing. Higher speeds can make conditions for these activities challenging and dangerous.

Wind Speed for Shipping:
For maritime operations, guidelines and thresholds vary depending on the size and type of the vessel. For instance, strong winds over 25 knots (approximately 46 km/h) can impair the maneuverability of ships and may require special precautions or even route adjustments.

Visibility

For maritime safety, clear visibility is crucial for detecting obstacles such as other ships, land, or navigational aids in advance and navigating safely. Typical visibility thresholds are:

Visibility under 1 Nautical Mile (approximately 1.8 kilometers):
This is often considered critical, as it significantly impairs the timely detection of obstacles.

Visibility of at least 2 to 3 Nautical Miles (approximately 3.7 to 5.6 kilometers):
This range is generally required to ensure safe navigation.

In poorer visibility conditions, often referred to as "restricted visibility" or "fog," additional safety measures and restrictions are imposed on shipping to prevent collisions and other accidents.

Wave Height

Wave height is the vertical distance between the highest point (crest) and the lowest point (trough) of a single wave. Measured in meters, it indicates how tall a wave is on the water surface.

Wave Direction

Wave direction describes the direction from which the waves are approaching a specific point. It is often measured in degrees, starting from North (0 degrees) and going clockwise up to 360 degrees. Wave direction is influenced by wind direction, coastal geography, and the interaction of ocean currents.

Wave Period

The wave period refers to the time interval between the passing of two consecutive wave crests at a specific point. It is typically measured in seconds. The wave period is an important parameter for characterizing waves and can vary significantly depending on the source of the waves and the atmospheric conditions generating them.

Wind Wave Height

Wind wave height specifically refers to waves generated directly by local winds. These waves are often shorter, rougher, and less regular than swell waves. They form as a result of the wind's action on the water surface, with the height of the waves depending on wind speed, wind duration, and the distance over which the wind has blown across the water (fetch).

Wind Wave Direction

Wind wave direction describes the direction from which the waves generated by local winds are approaching. It is crucial for navigation and safety at sea, as it indicates the direction from which the waves are hitting a ship.

Swell Height

Swell height refers to swell waves that originate from distant storm systems and travel across the oceans. Swell waves are generally longer, more regular, and more stable than wind waves. They can travel long distances, losing height over time but maintaining their elongated form. Swell waves are significant for maritime navigation and wave sports because their regular and stable nature makes them safer to navigate and ride.

Swell Direction

Swell direction indicates the direction from which swell waves, generated by distant storm systems, are coming. This direction affects how the swells propagate across the sea and how they impact a ship.

Swell Period / Swell Peak Period

Swell Period refers to the time between consecutive wave crests or troughs of swell waves, indicating their regularity and stability. A longer period suggests more stable waves with greater reach.

Swell Peak Period is more specific and measures the time between the highest points of successive swell waves. This period is crucial for assessing the intensity and potential impact of large swells on ships and boats.

Wind Wave Period / Wind Wave Peak Period

Wind Wave Period refers to the time interval between consecutive wave crests or troughs of wind waves, providing a fundamental assessment of wave movement and stability. This information is crucial for navigation, safety at sea, and planning maritime activities.

Wind Wave Peak Period is more specific and measures the time between the highest points of successive wind waves. It is particularly important for evaluating the intensity and potential impact of high waves on boats and ships. This parameter helps identify irregular or abrupt changes in wave conditions, especially in rough seas.

In practice, the significance of wind wave period versus wind wave peak period depends on the specific sea conditions. The wind wave period generally offers a broader insight into overall wave conditions, while the wind wave peak period is essential for a precise assessment of wave intensity and regularity.

Ocean Current Speed and Ocean Current Direction

Ocean Current Speed refers to the rate at which water flows in a specific direction within an ocean current. It is typically measured in meters per second (m/s) or knots (nautical miles per hour). The speed of ocean currents can vary depending on the region and depth of the ocean and is influenced by factors such as tides, wind, temperature differences, and the shape of the coastline.

Ocean Current Direction indicates the geographic direction in which the water within an ocean current is moving. It is usually expressed in degrees or cardinal directions (e.g., North, Southeast). The direction of ocean currents is important for ship navigation, route planning, and scientific studies that investigate the distribution of marine organisms, the spread of pollutants, or the distribution of nutrients.

Important Note:

Our app displays ocean currents at fixed points in the water and provides information on waves and tides with a resolution of approximately 8 km. However, these data are not suitable for small currents and do not replace the nautical almanac, which provides essential information for safe navigation. For assessing wind speeds, the Beaufort scale can be used, ranging from calm to hurricanes. For more information on the Beaufort scale, please refer to the relevant resources: Link.

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